In exceptionally general terms, there are 3 main game plans employed. You must be able to hop between game plans instantly as the action of the game unfolds.
The Blockade
This is composed of assembling a 6-deep wall of checkers, or at a minimum as thick as you might achieve, to lock in the competitor’s pieces that are located on your 1-point. This is deemed to be the most suitable strategy at the begining of the game. You can build the wall anyplace inbetween your 11-point and your two-point and then shuffle it into your home board as the game continues.
The Blitz
This consists of closing your home board as fast as as you can while keeping your opponent on the bar. e.g., if your opposer tosses an early two and shifts one checker from your 1-point to your 3-point and you then toss a 5-5, you are able to play six/one 6/1 8/3 8/3. Your opponent is now in serious difficulty seeing that they have two pieces on the bar and you have locked half your inside board!
The Backgame
This course of action is where you have 2 or more checkers in your competitor’s inner board. (An anchor is a point consisting of at least 2 of your checkers.) It needs to be used when you are decidedly behind as it greatly improves your circumstances. The strongest locations for anchor spots are close to your competitor’s lower points and also on abutting points or with one point in between. Timing is essential for an effective backgame: at the end of the day, there is no reason having 2 nice anchors and a complete wall in your own home board if you are then forced to break apart this straight away, while your challenger is shifting their checkers home, taking into account that you do not have any other spare pieces to shift! In this situation, it is better to have pieces on the bar so that you are able to preserve your position until your opponent provides you a chance to hit, so it will be a wonderful idea to try and get your opposer to hit them in this case!
November 25th, 2015
Lee
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