In extraordinarily simple terms, there are 3 main game plans used. You need to be able to hop between game plans quickly as the course of the match unfolds.
The Blockade
This consists of creating a 6-thick wall of pieces, or at a minimum as deep as you are able to manage, to barricade in the opponent’s pieces that are on your 1-point. This is deemed to be the most suitable strategy at the begining of the game. You can build the wall anywhere within your 11-point and your 2-point and then shift it into your home board as the match advances.
The Blitz
This involves locking your home board as quickly as possible while keeping your competitor on the bar. e.g., if your challenger tosses an early two and shifts one piece from your one-point to your three-point and you then roll a 5-5, you can play six/one six/one 8/3 8/3. Your competitor is then in serious difficulty taking into account that they have two pieces on the bar and you have locked half your home board!
The Backgame
This tactic is where you have 2 or higher pieces in your opponent’s inner board. (An anchor spot is a point occupied by at least 2 of your checkers.) It should be employed when you are decidedly behind as this action greatly improves your opportunities. The best locations for anchors are towards your competitor’s smaller points and either on abutting points or with a single point in between. Timing is essential for an effectual backgame: besides, there’s no point having 2 nice anchors and a complete wall in your own inner board if you are then required to dismantle this straight away, while your opposer is shifting their checkers home, seeing that you don’t have other additional checkers to move! In this situation, it is more favorable to have checkers on the bar so that you are able to preserve your position until your opponent gives you a chance to hit, so it can be a great idea to try and get your challenger to get them in this case!
January 15th, 2025
Lee
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