In extraordinarily simple terms, there are 3 general strategies employed. You need to be able to hop between game plans almost instantly as the action of the game unfolds.
The Blockade
This involves creating a 6-thick wall of pieces, or at a minimum as deep as you are able to achieve, to lock in the competitor’s pieces that are located on your 1-point. This is considered to be the most suitable tactic at the begining of the game. You can assemble the wall anyplace inbetween your 11-point and your two-point and then shift it into your home board as the game advances.
The Blitz
This consists of locking your home board as quickly as possible while keeping your challenger on the bar. For example, if your competitor rolls an early two and shifts one piece from your 1-point to your 3-point and you then roll a 5-5, you can play six/one six/one 8/3 8/3. Your opponent is now in serious dire straits since they have 2 checkers on the bar and you have locked half your inside board!
The Backgame
This strategy is where you have two or more checkers in your competitor’s inner board. (An anchor spot is a position consisting of at a minimum two of your checkers.) It needs to be played when you are decidedly behind as this plan greatly improves your opportunities. The strongest areas for anchor spots are close to your opponent’s lower points and either on abutting points or with one point separating them. Timing is integral for an effectual backgame: after all, there is no point having 2 nice anchors and a solid wall in your own home board if you are then forced to break apart this straight away, while your opposer is moving their pieces home, owing to the fact that you do not have any other extra checkers to shift! In this situation, it’s more tolerable to have pieces on the bar so that you can maintain your position up till your opponent provides you a chance to hit, so it may be a great idea to try and get your opponent to get them in this situation!