In astonishingly general terms, there are 3 main tactics employed. You want to be agile enough to hop between tactics quickly as the action of the game unfolds.
The Blockade
This involves creating a 6-thick wall of pieces, or at a minimum as deep as you are able to achieve, to block in your opponent’s pieces that are on your 1-point. This is judged to be the most acceptable procedure at the start of the match. You can build the wall anyplace between your 11-point and your two-point and then shift it into your home board as the game progresses.
The Blitz
This involves closing your home board as quickly as possible while keeping your opponent on the bar. e.g., if your opponent tosses an early 2 and shifts one piece from your 1-point to your three-point and you then roll a five-five, you are able to play six/one 6/1 8/3 eight/three. Your opponent is now in big-time dire straits because they have 2 checkers on the bar and you have locked half your inner board!
The Backgame
This plan is where you have 2 or more checkers in your opponent’s home board. (An anchor spot is a position occupied by at a minimum 2 of your pieces.) It must be employed when you are significantly behind as it greatly improves your chances. The best locations for anchors are close to your opponent’s smaller points and either on adjacent points or with a single point separating them. Timing is integral for a competent backgame: after all, there is no point having 2 nice anchors and a solid wall in your own inner board if you are then required to dismantle this right away, while your opponent is getting their checkers home, seeing that you do not have any other extra checkers to shift! In this situation, it is more favorable to have pieces on the bar so that you might maintain your position up till your opposer gives you a chance to hit, so it may be a wonderful idea to attempt and get your opposer to hit them in this case!