In astonishingly general terms, there are three main strategies used. You must be able to switch strategies almost instantly as the action of the game unfolds.
The Blockade
This is composed of assembling a 6-deep wall of checkers, or at least as deep as you can achieve, to barricade in the opponent’s pieces that are on your 1-point. This is deemed to be the most acceptable procedure at the begining of the match. You can assemble the wall anywhere between your eleven-point and your 2-point and then shuffle it into your home board as the match progresses.
The Blitz
This is composed of locking your home board as quick as as you can while keeping your opposer on the bar. e.g., if your opponent rolls an early 2 and moves one checker from your one-point to your three-point and you then toss a 5-5, you can play six/one 6/1 eight/three eight/three. Your competitor is then in serious trouble taking into account that they have 2 checkers on the bar and you have closed half your inside board!
The Backgame
This strategy is where you have two or higher pieces in your opponent’s home board. (An anchor spot is a position consisting of at least two of your pieces.) It would be employed when you are significantly behind as it greatly improves your opportunities. The best locations for anchors are towards your opponent’s lower points and either on adjacent points or with a single point separating them. Timing is integral for an effectual backgame: after all, there is no reason having two nice anchors and a solid wall in your own inner board if you are then forced to break apart this straight away, while your competitor is shifting their pieces home, considering that you do not have other spare pieces to move! In this case, it’s better to have pieces on the bar so that you can preserve your position up until your opposer gives you an opportunity to hit, so it may be an excellent idea to try and get your competitor to get them in this situation!
March 16th, 2019
Lee
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